Please note that I don't do all my armatures like this. This is the method I use for the smaller pieces. All my armatures are created according to the need for strength in the composition. The following represents a simplistic method of creating an 8" doll, with the absolute correct proportions and strength of limb. I am always available for questions: red@widowbryant.com
I have already sculpted, cured and painted the head of the figure.
I'm sorry not to have taken photos before doing the head. I forgot about the
tutorial you folks requested until I was already into the piece - doh!
To form the armature for the head and spine, I took one piece of (20 gauge?)
wire, folded it in half, and twisted it upon itself partway down the strand
to create more strength. Where I am going to place the head, I form a loop in
the wire. After forming the loop, I put a small bit of hot glue in and around
the loop, then I cover it with a small bit of foil to bulk out the head shape.
The inner loop keeps the foil ball from traveling up or down the neck as I sculpt
the head over it. When the sculpting is finished, I hang the head in the oven
to cure before finishing the armature.
To keep all my sculpts in proportion, I have copied a photo of a skeleton from an anatomy book. For this demonstration, I have made sure the actual skeleton in the photo is 8 inches tall. After printing, I drew lines with my ruler, representing "heads" or inches. My figure is 8 "heads" tall. I have several of these photos in all different sizes. I usually cover them with self-stick laminate, but it was too shiny for photos so I printed this one just for you. The laminate keeps them clean so I can re-use them time and time again.
You may download the bones photos by clicking the thumbnails below, then right click on the photo and save to your own computer. You'll have to draw your own reference lines. They're 300dpi for printing, and 8 inches tall.
Once again, I'm sorry that I don't have exact package information for the following supplies. I buy in bulk and take them out of the packages, so I don't have any labels to refer to. However, I will update this page when next I go shopping for supplies.
I buy packages of Sucker Sticks in Michael's Craft Store, in the cake and candy section. I buy the 6 inch sticks. Each stick has a hole down the center of it -- sometimes sealed at the ends, and sometimes obvious -- it depends on the batch of sticks. The wire I use is from the Floral Section of Michael's. Since I don't have the correct gauges here, take a few packages of the floral stem wire with you to the cake section. Choose a package of sucker sticks, and then maneuver one piece of wire out of its package and into the sucker stick package. Try to fit the wire into the center of one of the sucker sticks. If it fits snugly but not tightly, you have the correct gauge of wire.
Now, back to the armature. I lay one sucker stick on my skeleton reference, and mark it with a pencil where I need to cut. You'll see I do this for all the long bones, the shoulders and hips as well. I also make sure each side is even - EX - the left shoulder bone is equal to the right shoulder bone.
In this photo, I have laid one stick on the bone, and the other offset so you can see how I've measured. I leave my "bones" a bit short where the bones meet, so I can have some movement without them hitting each other and preventing a full range of movement.
I especially leave some room at the wrists. I like my hands to be really expressive, and this can be thwarted by the sucker stick coming too far into the wrist.
I use this pair of Handi-Cuts (Sears - Craftsman) to trim the sucker sticks, but you can use a regular pair of wire cutters as well. I like the Handi-Cuts cause they slice the sticks without smushing them at the ends. With the wire cutters, you might have to squeeze the ends a bit to re-open the hole after cutting. I love this tool and use it for so many things. It's got a changeable razor blade on one side of the cutters, and an anvil on the other. I swear, it cuts everything nice and straight without crunching.
After cutting the arm bones, I lay the armature on the skeleton again, and determine where the arms will join the spine wire. I then twist a new piece of wire onto the spine at this point, crimping it hard onto the spine with pliers where they join. Then I feed the arm bones onto the arms. I use a drop of superglue to tack them into place, always using my photo as my guide. I slide one of the bones back, put a drop of glue onto the wire, and then slide it back into place.
At the wrists, I terminate the wire at a loop which will go into the palm of the finished figure.
Additionally, I add another new piece of wire to extend the legs. I bend one wire in half, and then twist it tightly with the spine wire to connect the two. After determining the length of the spine, I'll trim the spine wires off before adding the leg bones. As you can see, I stop the spine at the pelvis.
Below, you'll see the finished skeleton including all bones in perfect proportion. I also terminate the leg wires in a loop which will go into the upper part of each foot in the finished figure. Sorry, in this photo the one shoulder has slipped down a bit so it doesn't look even, but it is. I like the ability of the arms and shoulders to move as I position the figure. This is a most realistic way of posing.
The product I use to strengthen the main joints is by Mastic. It's a plumber's putty which can be found in the plumbing or glue section of your hardware store. It's a two part epoxy stick, which is already pre-measured into a tube. It cures to steel like strength in about 5 minutes. The superglue I use is behind. It's a high temp Poly Binder I get from Polymer Clay Express.
I slice off a bit from the end of the epoxy stick. I only need a little bit right now.
I mix the chunk thoroughly until it is uniform in color.
I cover the joins in the wire at the mid chest and pelvis, to make sure there is no movement where I've added new wire. Additionally, I'll add small bits of this epoxy at the joints of each bone once the pose is determined. This keeps the elbows and knees and wrists strong. I normally do this as needed while I sculpt, not at the beginning.
Now I want to give the polymer clay something to adhere to, so I wrap the entire figure using 26 gauge paddle wire. I wrap some extra at the joints to make a thicker/stronger wire there too.
Next, I bend the spine into a natural curve, following the pattern on another photo I have printed, showing the same skeleton from the side. Please remember to make sure all photos show the skeleton as the exact size of your finished piece.
The last thing I do is bulk out the chest area with foil, and wrap it in a bit of white floral tape to keep the foil from coming in contact with the clay, as also for better adhesion.
The finished piece - on sale on eBay right now *smiling*
